Mitsubishi 2013 NW Pajero (NW) Flashing Center Dif. Light (CDL) Part 1 - solenoids HD

My Pajero travels about 50 kms in 2h, then disables the SuperSelect 4x4 and flashes the CDL light at me. I can’t uses 4x4. If I do the same in 4h, the error does not happen. The error is a softcode. After turning the car off and on again, the error is gone. It has been doing this since some extreme rock sliding a few months ago  If I attach many of the Autel, Gscan II and some snap-on code reader devices to the car, take a drive, let the error occur, they can’t see a code. If I short out pin one on the ODB II connector, I can’t make the CDL light flash an error code. Apparently that trick does not work on this model. https://www.facebook.com/rudi.zabeo/videos/1710532565643324/ So, moving on from codes, what do I do to find the error. My Mechanic was unable to locate an issue. (I had quite a few visits). There are 5 sensors, 5 leads coming off the top of the Transfer case. They need to be checked (Need to drop the transfer case). That is hard work and only one possible cause so where can I start that is easier and most likely the issue? (I did put my hand up over the top and everything felt in good condition) First step for me, I found oil in the bash plate, coming from oil leaking through the freewheel actuator position sensor. I had that sensor changed. As I am not a mechanic, dropping the bash plate (4 bolts) and spotting the oil, I have to note was easy. A good place to start. From here step 2,3,4,…. , there are vacuum hoses to check for leaks/cracks, Solenoids, a Vacuum accumulator and the Freewheel Actuator on the front Dif. (For a non mechanically inclined person, all sounds scary). I have called this video Part 1. I am sure that there will be a part 2 as I continue to diagnose. So, Part 1. I am going to check the Solenoids. I am documenting this as there are many questions about this online, in forums and Facebook. Many people don’t check them as they think it is too hard to get to. I am not a mechanic and have very little car knowledge. If I can check these Solenoids, you can. In this video I show how I got to the Solenoids and replaced then. I fail to show how I tested. To test, I removed the air box, leaving the electrical cables attached (So the emissions testing circuits do not cause a check engine light when I start the car). As I am going nowhere and am in a controlled environment, I did not need the air filter attached. There was no dust or bugs so suck in for the short time I needed to start the car. Once I got to the Solenoids, I removed the vacuum hoses from the topside of each solenoid. I started the car, had someone move from 2h to 4h. The 2h solenoid as a slight vacuum that I could feel when I put my finger over the hole. The 4h solenoid did not. So, it was dead. New ones on ebay – non oem AUD $20, OEM $60. One note, the solenoids have a yellow dot on one, and a blue dot on the other. The vacuum hoses have a yellow line on one, and blue on the other. As my hoses were very dirty I could not see this. I just rememb