Pine tar from scratch - How to make it using simple tools HD

This is a rather unusual way of making tar these days. It is also a way of making tar of a higher quality than you’d buy in the store. This is brown tar, or should I say reddish brown, with a higher resilience to water, ampler then black tar and on woodwork far more beautiful if you’d ask me. It is made from pine root in a tjärdal (tar ditch kiln) as tar has been made in Sweden for at least a thousand years. The old ditches can be found every here and there in the forests of Småland but I made my own one, about a fourth the size of what I believe is a normal size. Making the kiln was a previous video where I also showed the splitting of pine stumps, the making of troughs/containers and how to dig without having a spade, check it out at: https://youtu.be/lq7H_je0VPY This is one of the final episodes in a series where I explore craft processes without having a single hand tool to begin with and then make tools to make tools. Eventually the tools are used to build a tool chest from scratch to put the tools in. I just need tar to coat it and make sure the wood does not crack and bend. Check out one of the earlier videos here: https://youtu.be/1zN9VbmBHAk and the first one of proper woodwork here: https://youtu.be/wDfHDIysY-M How pine tar is made: First I adapt the ditch into a kiln by making a wooden pipe and cover it with dirt. The important part at this stage is to make sure the dirt does not fall into the kiln; hence the stones. Then all the bottom is covered in birch bark, not to make tar but to transport the tar down to the pipe, it is important to make sure the sheets overlap in a way that prevent tar to poor into the dirt. Fatwood is stacked as tightly as possible in the direction tar is supposed to flow, this might prove a bit tricky due to the bent shapes of roots. Eventually the whole pile is covered in birch bark, fir twigs, grass tufts and then dirt, all is covered except the highest point of the pile where lit charcoal is placed. The charcoal then heats the fat wood but the kiln shall not be too hot. The brown quality tar occurs due to two reasons; one is that the temperature is kept relatively low the other is that the parts that do become warm cools down rather quickly as it pours out. A high temperature would make wood coal and sot darkening the tar making the liquid less concentrated whilst the low temperatures makes it more resilient and long lasting when applied on wood. That is why I keep smothering the flames. When a large enough coaling of the fat wood has occurred I choke the top, waited a little bit and then opened up another air-hole in the bottom of the highest part… the most western part of the kiln, tar comes out in the eastern lower end… That way the wood will release tar but the tar will also slowly be pushed down closer to the pipe throughout the process. After a while I open up holes on the sides and then further down on the sides to keep pushing it downwards. The smoke is the que, blue almost clear smoke me